Project Run & Play: Season 9, Week 4 - Signature Style

Signature Style Challenge is definitely my favorite.
(Here is a description of my style from last year.)

I try to tackle the most challenging sewing projects during this week. 

But this time it almost turned out to be MISSION IMPOSSIBLE - Almost!

 I started sketching and drafting this trench 4 or 5 weeks ago. 

Wow, this was a labor of love (and hate)!

If I was gonna draft and sew the whole trench coat, it had to be a real deal, 

nothing short of an adult Burberry trench :)

When I started searching for the fabric, I didn't find anything that I liked in the local stores. 

So I had to improvise. 

I hit the thrift store and got so lucky when I found a man's large trench in an excellent condition. 

I cut it up into fabric pieces. I thought I'd have enough for two 3T coats, but boy was I wrong.

I had to get really creative to accommodate all my pattern pieces.

Almost every seam has four lines of stitching 

(initial straight stitch, zig-zag seam finishing, and two top stitching). 

I started with a generic dress pattern to copy basic proportions of the bodice and then really went to town...

I created double-breasted front, princess seams, two-panel sleeves, linings, facings, gun flap, storm flap, wrist straps, shoulder tabs, belt loops (at the waist, arms and shoulders), collar stand, collar, belt, 

bound button-holes and what not....

I so hate my button hole maker foot, I was excited to try the bound button holes out. 

I'm very happy with the final result, but it was so much work!

I had to find 15 matching buttons, which turned out to be impossible. 

I bought what they had and thought I'd improvise. Luckily, it took me so long to finish this coat, my local store refilled its stock of these buttons, so I got missing buttons at the last minute!

 I wanted to add unique design elements to the classic trench, 

so I drafted the storm flap and pocket flap with interesting pleat details and added buttons at the center.

 I embroidered a little message & my logo onto the facing. 

I made sure to add strong loop for hanging the coat. 

It took me many hours of internet research and browsing through some odd patterns I own to figure out the lining+facing the way I wanted. LOVE the result!

I tied the belt at the back since it's much flattering that way on little kids.

I LOVE THE FIT of this TRENCH! Don't you agree it's spot on?!!

 OK, I think sewing an elaborate trench coat is worth a three piece outfit, but still, I couldn't help myself to create at least another piece for the look. After all, it is Project Run & Play Signature Style Week!

So I made a nice summer tunic. 

This is basically the same self-drafted pattern as the last year's signature style dress.

I elongated the bodice with its princess seams. Added length only to the inner side of the side panel and gathered at the shoulders for a new look. 

I added a mini pompom trim at the gathered shoulders and a twill tape to tie at the back.

The tunic closes at the back with a single snap fastener.

 And that's it.

Can't wait for the next season of Project Run and Play!!!

Linking up to: Project Run and Play & Make It and Love It

Project Run & Play: Season 9, Week 2 - Spring Break

I've thought about this week's look for weeks.
I had everything decided in my head and even sketched the designs in my notebook.
However it took me forever to finalize all the items and had to post a rough photo of the outfit at the very last minute to make the deadline.

Good news is that I kept my promise and was able to photograph the outfit at the daylight 

and here they are!

I've been dreaming about Key West, Florida vacation and
imagining all the beautiful sea creatures I'd see when scuba diving over natural coral reef formations.

These thoughts brought me to my inspiration for the today's look - coral reefs!

I love the colors of the sea creatures swimming over the coral reefs;

I love all the intricate shapes one can find under water.

Still, when it comes to the garments, I tend to levitate towards solid and understated pallets.

So when I found this beautiful coral color cotton (in Joann's!), which has coral shaped sheerness, I knew I had hit the jackpot!

My plan was to create outfit suitable for the trip to the beach. 

First, I drafted this simple silhouette swim suit cover up. It's such an easy pattern (a rectangle with neck opening and stitching lines to separate bodice and sleeves.

At the waist, I added buttonholes and created a simple fabric belt with crocheted coral-like details.

I just love mint and coral together!!

The neckline is definitely my favorite part of this tunic. 

The neck opening as well as the slit at the front are trimmed with continues ruffle piece and bound with a bias tape. It closes with a small clip hidden by the cute little bow.

The sun hat was inspired by ruffly cabbage coral. 

I used his adorable FREE tulip sun hat pattern & tutorial and added width and length to the petals making the hat more ruffly. I attached more crocheted coral, shells and star fish to match it to my concept for the week! 

This hat will serve so well during sunny summer days... if they every come!...

Next on the list was a new swim suit for my almost 4 year old. 

She is learning to swim and often wears a training vest in the swimming pool. 

With these vests, a rush guard is a must, otherwise delicate skin gets rubbed against the vest.

So I made her a rush guard with a twist  - a peter pan collar.

(The pattern is an adaptation of McCall's 6393)

For the bikini, I flipped a simple pattern to include cute little ruffles at the sides 

(The initial pattern is McCall's 6729 - highly recommend! I did go up a size for a little more roomier fit.)

The fit of both of these pieces is pretty spot on!
I get nervous when attaching elastic to the swimwear leg/waist openings, because it stretches so much.
But I had nothing to fear here!

Phew... I'm sooo glad I made it this week.
I had grand plans for the next week, but I double I have enough time...
So maybe I should start on the Week 4 instead.... We'll see if that happens!

Compagnie-M Patterns Contest

I Love Sewing Contests.

They are inspiring, challenging and super motivating.

They push my imagination to new levels.

And... having a deadline helps to actually accomplish projects, 

instead of thinking and designing and redesigning over and over in my head.

Today I present you the combination of Louisa Dress and Mara Blouse patterns by Compagnie-M.

For the most part, I used the Louisa Dress Pattern (size 3 was a perfect fit for my 3 & 1/2 year old).

Obviously I wanted to keep the unique design aspect of the dress - pockets, however I thought that straps would really complement those pockets. 

So I replicated the front pocket design on the back and connected the two pockets with straps that have mini cap sleeve-like piece at the shoulders. 

For the bodice, I incorporated the yoke and long sleeve option from Mara Pattern. 

Instead of button placket on the front, I made a one piece yoke with some textile manipulation effects.

The contrasting fabrics and colors of the bodice and the skirt 

(top is tissue linen in natural color, and the skirts is a heavier weight linen in burgundy-purple color) 

make an illusion of a two-piece outfit instead of one dress.

I think it's a perfect look for a preschooler. 

Pockets are lined with very lightweight lavender polka dot satin-like fabric.

(Pockets on the back are also functional, though not very practical I imagine.)

Lace trim finishes are at the pockets, sleeve cuff and the yoke of course.

Straps are attached with beautiful rustic metal flower buttons.

I just love the rustic romantic feel linen always gives a garment and these buttons were the perfect match! 

When we took the dress out for a test-drive, it turned out the straps kept falling down. 

My first thought was I needed to tack those straps down at the shoulders. 

But after watching N run around with the straps hanging down, I kind of started to like the look. 

Maybe I'll have to think of a way to keep both options possible!

To VOTE for this design, CLICK HERE and then click little heart at the top right corner of the page. 

Thanks!

Georgian Roots Inspired Sewing

Update: Project Run and Play Sew Along is one of the most inspiring challenges out there.

The talent and the stories behind each sewn outfit are amazing. 

I couldn't pass up an opportunity to participate this season, even if it was just one week. 

I'm presenting my signature look (last season's signature look), 

which this time is also a very Georgian-inspired outfit. 

I am Georgian

Georgia is a small country on the crossroads of Europe and Asia.

It's history and traditions take start in ancient times.  

When I started to think about my inspirations, I was overwhelmed...

Every region of Georgia is unique with their own traditions, cultural heritage and fashion trends. 

Source

After much deliberation, this is what I came up with - traditional man's coat and a shirt turned into a girl's long sleeveless cardigan and a dress, keeping many recognizable elements, but making them appropriate for a little girl.

Additional accessories include a pettiskirt and a headpiece.

My goal was to sew an outfit:

-  inspired by Georgian traditional outfits

- not a literal interpretation, yet very strongly influenced by traditional outfits

- not a costume, rather a comfortable and playful ensemble for a preschooler

- comprised of pieces she can wear through these cold winter days

- true to my design aesthetics

I'm so happy with what I was able to make in only a very short time. 

The first piece is a long wool sleeveless cardigan inspired by a man's traditional coat 'Chokha'.
I felted an existing wool sweater and designed a long sleeveless cardigan, which closes with a single button in the front.
Neck and front opening are bound with a velvet ribbon so that it acts as an embellishment as well as encloses the raw edges. (Love how this turned out!)

Back features pleated skirt piece for fullness  and hand-embroidered Georgian symbolic crosses on tck.

 The original chokha is still very traditional for men to wear at various occasions including weddings.

Source

And yes, they carry real weapons and bullets, which are necessary attributes of the outfit.)

Source

Traditionally, chokha is not worn by women, but modern designers often use this piece in their women's collections as well as female performers - in their stage costumes. 

Sources

For N's Chokha, I knew what I'd replace the bullets with - the peg dolls!

They are N's most favorite part of the outfit. She wouldn't stop playing with "her little friends"!

(I spray painted the dolls in silver, then drew faces with a Sharpy.)

Next comes the dress. 

I used a comfy knit fabric and drafted my own pattern. 

Here I incorporated a dominant design element of some chokha styles as well as traditional women's dresses - sleeves that are open at the front seam and expose the shirt worn inside. 

Source

In my case, I wanted a functional sleeve, so I switched the seam from under-arm (I'm sure there is a more technical term for this seam), to the off-center-front-seam (wow, I'm really bad at this!) and inserted an inverted pleat in a contrasting fabric to simulate that exposed undershirt effect. 

I added another inverted pleat in the front bodice to achieve an effect of button-up shirt and added an invisible zipper in the back. Stand-up collar was another prevalent detail of my inspiration outfits.

Despite the overwhelming number of photos in this post, I don't have too many good shots of the kiddo in her outfit. The weather was soooo freezing, that her poor hands kept making fists and her face expression .... well... not picture perfect.... 

Next piece of her outfit is a tutu. 

N has been asking for a pink tutu and I needed a pettiskirt for some poof in this outfit, 

so here's a lovely tulle skirt. 

Lastly, her head accessory - Papanaki. 

Originally, it's a man's hat.

 

 However, nowadays it's the women who carry these elaborate hand-embroidered pieces to accessorize their outfits.

I freezer-paper-stenciled N's papanaki and then embroidered around and in-between the stenciled shapes. I added narrow elastic and N has been wearing it ever since!

So, this is it. 

I'm so grateful to the E&E blog for such an amazing series. 

This was an amazing challenge and experience for me.